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Complete Instructions 



-For— 



MRS. LOUISA TEAGUE'S 
SELF-TEACHING DRESS CHART. 




Containing Full and Complete Directions 
for Cutting and Fitting Ladies' and Children's 

Dresses. 






Published by the Prop., 

Iwlrs. Louisa. Teag-me, 

GOLDTHWAITE, TEXAS. 



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Copyright 1895 
By Mrs. Louisa league. 



J. T. DEAN, Printer, 
Qoldthwaite, Texas. 



POINTS TO BE OBSERVED. 



1. Always be sure to read the directions carefully before 
beginning to cut or draft a pattern. 

2. Always be sure to take the correct measure. 

3. Always b^ sure to dot every number corresponding with 
the bust measure. 

4. Always cut the back of a dress, or waist first. 

5. Always keep the cloth line towards yon, when dotting off 
a pattern. 

6. Always be sure to place the scroll in the proper position. 
It will help you to do this to place it first on the lines drawn 
on the chart. 

7. Always keep the notch on the scroll at the elbow, when 
laying off the elbow of the sleeve. The scroll must touch 
three dots on all decided curves. 

8. Always hold the chart still on the goods when dotting off 
a pattern. 

9. Always hold the back full on the back side gore when 
basting a dress or waist. 

10. Always hold the front full on the back in basting 
shoulder seam. 

It will be necessary some times to trim off some on the 
shoulder, that is if person is hoUow; in front or stooped 
shouldered r i^ 

Directions for cutting a plain pattern are on each piece of 
the chart and these should be thoroughly studied. 



DIRECTIONS FOR TAKING MEASURE. 



First, take the bust measure all around the body close up 
under the arms across the fullest part of the bust. 

Second, take the length of the waist in the back from prom- 
inent bone -in the back of the neck to waist. 

Take measure around waist. 

Take length of sleeve in front from arms eye to wrist with 
the arm held out straight, not stretched. 

If person is much stooped take length of waist in front 
from throat to waist. 

Take length of skirt from waist to length desired. 



DIRECTIONS FOR USING THE CHART. 

First take the measures: 
Bust measure; 
Length of waist in back; 
Around waist; 
Length of sleeve ; 
Length of skirt. 
Then lay off your pattern by the number corresponding with 
the bust measure. By studying the directions on the chart 
you will have no trouble in cutting a plain waist, sleeve, or 
skirt; and directiv^ns are in this book for all fancy styles. 

In lengthening or shortening the waist, remember if the 
waist is changed in the back the front must be changed to 
correspond, that is, if the back is lengthened one inch length- 
en the front one inch, or if the back is shortened one inch, 
shorten the front one inch, and so on. 

The skirt is lengthened or shortened with the tape line to 
the persons measure. 



BASQUE. 

BACK AND BACK SIDE GORE.— First get the bust measure to 
find the number to lay off by 

Then get the length of the waist in the back. 

With the tape line measure on the chart from the number 
at the back of the neck corresponding with bust measure to 
the waist line. Slip the splice up or down, if necessary, till the 
waist line on chart is even with the length of waist on the 
tape line, and put on the clamps. Slip both sides of the 
splice the same. 

Then dot every number on the chart corresponding with 
bust measure, beginning with the first corresponding number 
above the splice. Then mark off with scroll. Let the scroll 
touch three dots on each curved seam. 

FRONT AND UNDER ARM GORE.— If the length of the back has 
been changed, change the front to correspond. 

Then dot every number corresponding with the bust measure, 
beginning with th« first corresponding number above the splice 
on the cloth line. 

Then lay off with the scroll. The scroll must touch three 
dots in the neck and four dots in the arm's eye. 

After the pattern is laid off, measure across the pattern 
at waist line, skipping each dart, and take up or let out in both 
under arm seams to person's exact measure, plus 8 inches for 
seams and hems. 

If person is very full breasted, slope off down front as shown 
on chart, and face. 

SLEEVE.— Get the length of the arm, iri front, from arms 
eye to wrist, with the tape line. 

Measure on the chart, from the number corresponding with 
the bust measure on the upper end of the cloch line, to the 
correspouding number on lower end of the cloth line, bring- 
ing the tape line in to touch the corresponding number in 
the elbow, then lengthen orshorteu if necesary by slipping 
the splice up or down as required, one half above and one 
half below the elbow. 

Then dot every number corresponding with the bust meas- 
ure, the black numbers for the top part and the red numbers 
for the under part of the sleeve 

For Princess dress or Wrappers lay off same as Basque, and 
get length of skirt. Then measure on cloth from waistline to 
length of skirt. 




SEAMLESS WAIST. 

First cut a perfect fitting pattern by the chart — Back, 
Back side gore, Front, and Front side gore. 

Get the width of the front dart, and slope the width of it off 
back of the hem in the waist, sloping out to the edge of the 
hem at the bust, and slope back to the line for the hem in the 
neck, as shown on diagram. 

Get the width of the back dart, and slope it off at the waist 
in the under arm seam, letting it slope from the arm's eye. 

Turn down one half inch seam on the back. 

Lap the back side gore on the back one inch. Lap the 
front side gore one and one fourth inches on the back side 
gore, aad last lap the front one and one fourth inches on the 
front side gore. 

Then measure across the waist with the tape line, and let 
out or take up the two under arm seams to persons exact 
measure, plus one inch for lap down the front. 

Pin all the seams on the pattern, and measure across bust 
and let out or take up in the tw.. under arm seam?. Theu 
lay the pattern on your cloth, having the cloth folded in the 
back, and cut right by the pattern. 

All seamless backs for waist, Etons, Coatr-j and Cape AYraps, 
are made the same as Seamless Waists. 

Dartless Waists, Basques and Princess have the dart taken 
o;i; . the same as for Seamless Waists. 







For Shirt Sleeve. 

First cut a perfect fitting pattern by the Chart. 

Then lay the patterns on your cloth so the outside seams 
just touch at the elbow. Next measure straight across from 20 
to 22 and keep the same distance from the pattern all around 
the top to 24, then straight down to the wrist as shown on 
the diagram. 

If Leg-o-mutton shirt sleeves are desired, allow more ful- 
ness over the top. 




LEG-0-MUTTON SLEEVE. 



LEG-0-MUTTON SLEEVE. 

First cut a perfect fitting pattern by the chart. 

Then lap the back seams one inch at the wrist and let the 
lap extend to the elbow dot. 

Then measure from 20 to 22 on diagram, or from elbow dot 
to top of i^attern, and bring the same measure down as shown 
by the dotted line from 20 to 24, and the same from 22 to 26. 

Then measure from 28 to 30 and keep the same measnre all 
around to the third dot on the top of the pattern, as shown by 
dotted lines on diagram. 

Now cut by the pattern from 20 down and around to 30, 
then cut around circle back to 20. 

If smaller sleeves are desired allow less fullness over top of 
pattern. 



CHILDREN' 8 CLOTHING, 

Children''^ clothing is cut by the same directions as given fo7' 
Ladies' clothing. 




PUFF SLEEVE 



PUFFED SLEEVE. 

First lay off a perfect fitting pattern by tlie chart. 

Then lay the inside seams together and notch two and one 
half or three inches further down on the pattern, than you 
want the puff w^hen finished. 

Lay the under part of the pattern on the left side of your 
goods, allowing the goods to extend down one and one half 
inches below the notch on the pattern. 

Then measure from 20 to 22, and place the top part of the 
sleeve that distance from the under part, as shown by dotted 
line on diagram. Measure the same distance from the upper 
part to the right, shown by dotted line 00, allow the cloth the 
same distance below the notch on the top that it is on the un- 
der part, and slope off as shown in cut. 

If draped puff is wanted allow more fullness over the top as 

shown by dotted line; but if plain puif is wanted allow only one 

and one half inches over the pattern as shown by straight line. 

If bell puff is wanted split plain puff pattern and flare at 
the bottom as shown bv dotted line. 



)\ 



TO CUT SKIRTS— FOUR GORE. 

FRONT GORE,— Have the cloth doubled in the center, and 
place the chart on, so the folded edge shows through the holes 
in the cloth line. 

Then dot the top hole in the cloth line, and dot the num- 
bers corresponding with the bust measure shown by the black 
dotted lines running from the top to the bottom of the chart. 

Get length of skirt with tape line, and measure down fold- 
ed edge to length desired and dot. 

Next measure from second dot at the top, straight down 
and dot ; then bring the lower end of tape line on a line with 
the lower dot, to the measure and dot. 

SIDE GORE. — Lay off same as front gore, having the selvedge 
to show through the holes in the cloth line, and dotting the 
numbers corresponding with bust measure, shown by the red 
dotted line running from the top to the bottom of the chart. 

Slope off on the straight edge, as shown by short red lines 
at thp top of the cloth line. 

Use a straight width for the back. 

Dotted lines on thejdiagram show how to get [length of 
skirt with tape line. 



FOR A NARROW FRONT GORE,— First lay off a front gore pat- 
tern by the chart as directed. 

Then take (»ff three inches all the way down the front, and 
slope the fulness of the dart off at the bias edge, as shown on 
diagram. 

FIVE GORED SKIRTS,— Lay off same as for four gored skirts, 
using two side gores for the back. 

SIX GORED SKIRTS, — Cut a narrow front gore, and two side 
gores for each side, cut ))y the front gore on the chart, using 
a straight width for the back. 

SEVEN GORED SKIRTS,— Cut same as six gored, using two 
gores in the back instead of a straight width. 




FOR CIRCULAR SKIRT. 

Always lay off a pattern. 

First lay off a front gore by the chart. Then turn down 
the three inches and the fullness of the dart as directed for 
narrow front gore. 

Then lay off four narrow gores combined. Now open out 
the three inches and the fulness of the dart, and lay off one 
wide gore by the four narrow ones as showned by diagram, 

For Circular front, lay off four narrow gores, as for circular 
skirt, then cut two gores for the back by the side gore on the 
chart. Or, use a straight width in the back if preferred. 

For Rippled gored skirts use a narrow front gore, and lay off 
two narrow gores combined for the side gores. 





SAILOR COLLARS AND ALL FANCY COLLARS 
are cut by No. 30, on the black line on the drapery sheet. 
They can be made any shape desired, the line being drawn 
on the chart to insure a perfect fit. 

CAPES are cut by this number. Bring them down straight 
in front by the dot on the red line. The line having three 
holes on it is the back for Collars, Capes, Bretelles, &c. 

All Bretelles &c. that sew on round yoke style, are cut by 
No. 30 on red line. They can be made any shape. To make 
any of these larger or smaller cut the circle larger or smaller. 

If Ripples are wanted, slash the pattern on the shoulder, 
and flare. 




FOR RIPPLE COLLARS 

cat by No 40. Cut two circles and 
seam together in the back. It can 
be made as wide or as narrow as 
desired, measuring with the tape 
lino the same distance all around 
the circle. 

FOR BRETELLES OR BERTHAS 
that want to fit plain over the 
shoulder and run down in the 
back and front, cut by No. 32, 
black lines/ ^ 

FOR RIPPLES over the shoulder 
cut by No. 44, or for very full Rip- 
ples by Nf>. 42. 




AGENTS WANTED. 



Ladies or gentlemen desiring light and profitable employ- 
ment would do well to engage with us, We offer you a busi- 
ness that requires but little capital and no special skill or train- 
ing, and one which pays well for your services. 

The cutting of garments is something almost every family 
must do. A simple system like the one we offer is almost a 
necessity in every home. It saves time and w(»rry; it saves 
many times its value, since it obviates the necessity of buying 
new patterns. 

While there are a number of different systems of Garment 
Cutting in the market there is nothing like this ; nothing so 
simple, nothing so easy to learn, nothing so easy to apply. 

We call attention to the following special advantages in the 
sale of our Self -Teaching System of Dress Cutting: 

1. You offer an article needed by almost every family in the 
land. 

2. You supply an article that will be in almost constant use 
and one that grows in favor with acquaintance. 

3. Each one sold creates a demand for others. 

To those in search of employment that will give them a 
handsome remuneration while at the same time giving full 
value to your customer, we confidently say, that we know of 
nothing that offers so great advantages as this business. 

It is a positive pleasure to sell an article which will continue 
to please your customer. And such an article we offer you. 

I will sell county or state rights and furnish stock at cost 
of manufacture, or I will supply agents at wholesale price, 
and let them sell on any unsold territory they may select. 

Mrs. Louisa Teague, 

Goldthwaite, Texas. 



Testimonials. 



I can ffive any number of Testimonials, but deem the 
following sufficient. I will gladly give the names of persons 
using the chart to any one wishing to further investigate its 
merits. 



Goldthwaite. Texas, June 24, 1895. 

To those who are in need of a Perfect Fitting- Dress Chart : — 

I have for many years used the Normal system, have also used the 
Thompson Garment Cutter and Cromwell system; all of which will cut 
a plain waist to fit by spending- some time in basting. 

I have recently purchased Mrs. Teague's Dress Chart and laid away 
all others as this saves buying the pattern of all new styles. 

My sewing is much less trouble and cheaper, and I would not be de- 
prived of this chart for ten times its cost. 

Mrs. J. T. Prater. 



This is to certify that I have used Mrs. L. Teague's chart, and can 
sincerely say that it is the most perfect in every respect of any I ever 
used or saw^ and I have used several different makes. It is so simple 
that 8|,ny child of ten who knows the numbers can use it 
Mullin. Tex.. June 24, 1895. Mrs. Callie Anderson 



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